Portugal Part II: The Capital of Charm and Fado
Intro
Welcome to part II of our Portugal itinerary. You’re catching us as we make our way from Porto down to the Capital city of Lisbon (or Lisboa). This transition marks the half-way point and a great opportunity to see more of Portugal’s diverse landscape during the 4-hour train ride from Porto. Our accommodation for the second leg of the journey was the lovely Pátio do Tijolo in Lisbon, a boutique property in a quiet corner of Lisbon’s hip nightlife hub, Bairro Alto. This served as the perfect centerpiece for our adventures.
Speakeasies and Historic Tapas
After checking in, we immediately put our names in at Taberna da Rua das Flores. This restaurant is renowned for its intimate, timeless atmosphere and historic tapas recipes. You'll likely have to wait, but it is damn good and worth every moment. If the wait is more than a few minutes, hop over to Lumi Rooftop (inside the Lumiares Hotel) for an aperitivo and a first-look at the incredible cityscape, which Lisbon is well known for.
Later, we tried our luck at the Red Frog Speakeasy, a bar celebrated for its inventive craft cocktails and 1920s glamor. It’s consistently rated among the top bars in the world. We were lucky enough to snag a last-minute spot. Worst case if your luck runs dry, drinks inside the main bar Monkey Mash are not to be missed. Think inventive takes on classics set in a tropical environment that’ll make you forget you’re in a historic European Capital.
Lisbon’s Soul and a Taste of Fado
This day was all about absorbing Lisbon's local soul. Take the road less traveled and head over to the neighborhoods of Estrela and Campo Ourique for a taste of Lisbon’s deep history. We like Culinary Backstreets “Lisbon Awakens” experience which is a crash course in how the Lisboas live and eat.
While we were in Campo Ourique after the tour, we made sure to stop and visit Casa Fernando Pessoa. Fernando Pessoa was a famous Lisbon poet who was most well known for his use of heteronyms—distinct literary personas that were far more than mere pen names. He lived in this house for the last 15 years of his life. For sure a cool local cultural experience after a morning of foodie fun.
This evening was dedicated to Fado, Portugal's beautiful and melancholic music tradition. Before the dinner and show, we visited Matiz Pombalina Cocktail Bar, a locally run joint in the quaint neighborhood nearby to get a feel for the area's history. The main event was dinner at Sr. Vinho, an authentic Fado dinner experience, known for having some of the best food among the Fado houses. Bring your tissues. You might not understand the lyrics, but Fado is so outwardly emotional it might bring tears out anyway. Cry baby or not, it was an experience totally unique to Portugal and its cultural history.
Sintra's Palaces and Pastries
This day was dedicated to Sintra, a town straight out of a fairy tale only about 30 minutes out of Lisbon by car or train. The town’s historic center is a fun bonus visit compared to the surrounding castles and palaces that draw the tourist crowds. Get ready for a lot of walking!
Our first stop was Castelo dos Mouros, known as Europe's "great wall. We then grabbed a taxi to Monserrate, which may have been my favorite gardens to visit in Sintra—definitely worth buying your tickets in advance. Pena Palace, by far Sintra’s biggest attraction, houses stunning architecture, views, and surrounding gardens, but we left it off of this trip due to the immense crowds, which can be the drawback to Sintra if you travel during peak season.
Lunch was back in Sintra town at Tascantiga, a superb tapas spot offering both healthy and hearty plates. Don’t skip out on this place. It’s a great midday meal. However, no trip to Sintra is complete without sampling the traditional pastries, so we headed to Casa Piriquita for the best-of-the-best, specifically the local Queijada de Sintra. Most people aren’t aware of the hyper-locality of the sweets here. These pastries are specifically known to be produced in Sintra, which makes the indulgence even more special. We walked around the shops to work off the deliciousness before calling our driver to head back to Lisbon.
That evening, we opted for a meal at hip and new Santa Joana. A buzzingly new spot on Lisbon’s strong culinary map. Portuguese dishes executed to perfection by Chef and Culinary Director Nuno Mendes. Pro-tip: book a spot upstairs at their Japanese style hi-fi bar The Kissaten to keep the good vibes going.
A Final Taste of Lisbon
Our final full day was spent revisiting some favorites and ticking off final sights. We visited the historic Sé de Lisboa (Lisbon Cathedral), the oldest church in the city, for a cool history lesson. For a simple but perfect lunch, we grabbed a well-deserved Bifana (a marinated pork sandwich) and a beer at As Bifanas do Alfonso. This curbside café is as simple as it gets. The staff my know a bit of English but try taking this opportunity to try out your best Portuguese, they’ll respect you for trying.
Before our last supper, we relaxed and walked around some of Lisbon’s neighborhoods that he hadn’t seen too much of yet. We trekked up the hill to Santo António, which is lauded as one of the best spots in the entire city for Pastel de Natas. Once we had enough sweets, we burned it off by walking up to Graca. Graça is Lisbon’s soulful, hilltop crown. Situated on the city's highest hill, it is a neighborhood that manages to feel like a self-contained village while offering the most expansive views of the capital below. Historically a working-class district, Graça has retained an authentic, "unpolished" Portuguese charm that its neighbor, Alfama, has partially lost to heavy tourism
After a bit of exploring and taking in the views, we found ourselves at the hip and local wine bar Vino Vero. We ended our journey with beautiful natural wines and a fun vibe. It didn’t hurt to do some extra walking through Miradouro da Graça at sunset for sweeping views of Lisbon to cap off an amazing adventure.
The Journey’s End
This trip was a feast for the senses, delivering rich culinary experiences alongside deep dives into Portugal's beautiful culture and history. Every bite and every view was a testament to the magic of Portugal. If you're looking to plan a trip that balances historic exploration with world-class gastronomy, Lisbon should be at the top of your list.
